In his 1997 Givenchy collection, he has used a
very unusual type of eye make-up, rather like cats, and he also used sheer
transparent printed materials in a Chinoiserie manner.
In his 1998 show, a disabled model, who has two false
legs, wore his dresses, and looked beautiful in them.
In the Spring 1999 show, the models and dresses were all
sprayed with paint. It caused rather an uproar.
At the end of 1999, Alexander McQueen opened his first
store in London, at Conduit Street, near the Japanese designers.
The MCQUEEN STYLE
Alexander McQueen's collections for Givenchy have
included golden eagles embroidered by Lesage, rose petals pressed into sheer
organdie, pure gold material woven for a bolero jacket, feathers painstakingly
layered like a bird's wing onto a catsuit and other unique weird styles. But he
has not forgotten that he must play the Givenchy game, if he is to succeed.
At the end of the day, Givenchy is 200 million light
years away from what he does at McQueen. One is London, the other Paris.
He says " It is two different aesthetics and it is hard
to be both at the same time. McQueen is about our times and Givency is about
allure, femininity, aloofness and seduction. They do not employ me to do
bumsters."
McQueen's view of French fashion is frank "What is
missing is French chic, I''ll bring French chic to Paris. I like about 25 % of
what Givenchy did, I look back at it and think - move on This is about showing
people that I can do a beautiful collection, that I don't have to shock people
all the time. Paris couture started with WORTH who was English and it will begin
again with Alexander McQueen who is English too."
He has managed to continue to design in his funky,
youthful modern manner at his own house of McQueen while also producting the
elegant, expensive, beautiful creations at Givenchy. This takes a real effort,
but so far he is succeeding. He will probably get better as he gains more
experience even though these two houses are so different.
McQueen himself has said, that he would not accept any
financial share-holding in his own McQueen label company. He says that this
wholly owned company would enable him to continue to design unusual, radical,
cutting-edge clothes, which might not be acceptable at a well-established house
like Givenchy. He wants to be able to put out into the market, his own unique
and unusual ideas, without any restrictions.
In the year 2000, Alexander McQueen suddenly left
Givenchy. He is continuing to design clothes under his own label. His
replacement at Givenchy is British designer Julien MacDonald.
Alexander McQueen opened his first American showroom in
New York in September 2002. Here is a picture of it.
Spring/Summer 2003
Alexander McQueen presented his Spring/Summer 2003
collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2002 which was very well
received. This is an outfit from that collection.
McQueen has shed 30 pounds in weight, and also shed his
bad boy image. The most shocking thing about his show, was the old-fashioned
romance and solid commercial appeal. He had floaty dresses in vibrant colours,
with creamy ruffles and micro-shorts with flowing coats. There was none of the
usual anger and aggression. He has really grown up.
Fall/Winter 2003
Alexander McQueen
presented his Fall collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2003.
It also happened to
be his 34th birthday, and he celebrated with a wonderful party which was also
for the introduction of his new perfume KINGDOM. He must also be happy that Karl
Lagerfeld, in the April edition of Vogue, mentioned that McQueen was a very good
designer. Praise indeed.
McQueen's inspiration for this collection was Tibet with
snowy shearling parkas, Eurasian ethnic prints, reminding us of a nomadic
journey across the tundra. His clothes were embroidered, painted and embellished
to look like Samurai armour, Russian dolls and tribal ceremonial dress. He even
had a fake snowstorm. It was tremendously creative as always.
Spring/Summer 2004
During Paris Fashion Week in October 2003, Alexander
McQueen showed his collection for next Spring. A dress from this collection is
shown on the right.
His show was an exuberant hilarious dancehall involving
dancers, models and the audience. Everyone was dancing on the arms of sailors,
dressed in fishtailed silver lame, cha-cha dresses and gowns with spangled
bodices and huge feathered skirts. The climax was when one dancer in a silver
sequined gown expires on stage and is carried off by MacQueen himself to
thunderous applause.
He
turns down YSL
In February 2004, Alexander was offered YSL Rive Gauche
after Tom Ford leaves, but he has declined the job as he wants to concentrate on
his own label.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
Alexander McQueen
presented his own label Fall collection in Paris during Fashion Week in March
2004. On the left is an outfit from the show. His intention this season, he
said, was to strip away all theatrics and focus purely on design. His show
looked like a kind of rebirth. He sent out a parade of nude-coloured outfits in
tweed, double-faced cashmere, leather, suede, jersey and chiffon pared down to
familiar shapes of jumpsuits, hourglass coats, and nipped-waist suits.
Black Night
To celebrate five years of the American Express
Centurion Card, Alexander McQueen put on a "Black" Fashion show at Earls Court
Exhibition Centre in Central London on June 3rd, 2004. A picture from the show
is shown on the right.
Spring/Summer 2005
Ready-to-Wear
During Paris
Fashion Week in October 2004, Alexander McQueen showed his own collection for
next Spring. An outfit from this collection is shown on the left.
His inspiration was
a chessboard, and he used it to show 36 looks from his past collections. He
reviewed all his greatest moments from sharp tail coats, Japanese kimonos,
sci-fi bodysuits, moulded corsets and flounced skirts. They looked even better
the second time around.
Autumn/Winter 2005
Alexander's Autumn/Winter collection was shown during
Paris Fashion Week in March 2005. He put out a market friendly collection of
gripping jackets and hobbling skirts, patterned knits, pompons and ponchos which
reminded of Peru. It was essentially retro, powerful in its vision of Hollywood
as part of the past. The precise cutting of suits, coats and day dresses went
back to the glamour of the gowns in an era when women's sensuality was the most
important thing.
Spring/Summer 2006
Paris Fashion Week
Alexander presented
his Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2005. An
outfit from the collection is shown on the left. It consists of grey cuffed
shorts (so popular this season) with a matching jacket over a white blouse. The
model is wearing gladiator sandals.
Alexander has
changed from the designer who scared and shocked his audience. He sends out his
models in orderly fashion, so that we can see the clothes he has designed. His
black suits, beautifully tailored as always, have lost their exaggerated waists
and jutting shoulder, they are now much more wearable. Spencer jackets with
button-down lapels, short flippy skirts and shorts with a girl-rocker look about
them, appeared. His evening gowns had the look of Greek goddesses. However a
little of the old McQueen appeared in fantasy gowns with metalwork bodices,
rather like eighties sci-fi TV programmes.
Alexander McQueen new McQ line
This is Alexander's new younger, less costly line, made
up of jeans, T-shirts, minis, knitwear and everything young people love to wear.
It should be on sale next Summer.
PERFUMES
2003
Kingdom
(W)
2004
Kingdom
(M)
2005
My Queen
(W)
2005